Commis*

Oakland, CA

We have been meaning to return to Commis since our first visit about two years ago. Back then, when it had just opened, the menu format was different (choice of 3 courses for $59) compared to the updated 5 course $68 fixed menu. The hype has continued for the one Michelin star Oakland gem and we felt we needed to revisit it to give it a more accurate review. Upon entry, we saw chef Syhabout hard at work behind the large counter with four other chefs. Unfortunately we weren't able to get a seat the counter, but got a perfect private tucked away table in the front entry way. While looking at the menu trying to decide our beverages, we were given two parmesean crackers with vegetable ash served in a bed of rocks. 

Parmasean cookie with vegetable ash

This was one of the most unique and creative presentations I've ever seen. If the edible rocks weren't identified by the small leafy green, we would've had a tough time determining which one was the actual cracker. A playful, fun way to showcase the chef's skills from the start.

Poached farm egg with dates, granola

The poached farm egg is something that we did not have on our first visit, but people rave about. This was Chu-Toro's favorite dish of the night, a well balanced dish covering an array of textures from the delicate egg yolk, to the sweet date bits, crunchy granola mix all incorporated by the white, not too heavy, cream based sauce. Pretty delicious.

Albacore in padron pepper anchoiade, radish and toasted sea palm

The first course was presented as a albacore tartar, sitting atop an anchoiade of padron pepper. Classically, an anchoiade is a Provençal puree of anchovies, garlic and olive oil. A pile of fresh, crisp, raw vegetables and flowers garnished the dish. So fresh, that a flower had a tiny live caterpillar seeking shelter off the plate. The crunchy vegetables were reminiscent of a Manresa influenced dish, allowing the natural flavors of the raw veggies to shine. The albacore itself was a bland, mushy offering, our least favorite dish of the night. 

Cold soup of green tomatoes, frozen courgette with shallot and mint

Next up was a cold soup of unripened green tomatoes, frozen courgette (zuchini) with shallot and mint. I'm not a huge fan of cold soups, but this one was light, refreshing and perfect for a warm summer evening. 

Gently cooked cod, Monterey squid confit in ink with horticultural beans

The highlight of the meal for me was the cod and squid course. Every bite of this course was excellent, starting with the gently cooked cod, melt in your mouth tender and delicious. It instantly reminded me of my favorite fish course of all time from Momofuko Ko, where the tenderness and gentleness of the fish was sushi like. Perfectly cooked. The gorgeous radishes with its leafy green tops were the freshest veggie we tasted throughout the evening, wonderfully crunchy and earthy. The Monterey squid confit cooked in its own ink would have been a first for us had we not recently had it at Le Chateaubriand in Paris, but chef's Syhabout's version was far superior. Almost too concentrated in strong flavors, the grainy and unique bite reminded us of a Chinese shrimp paste with a spicy kick. A good example of creativity that can be discovered and boundaries pushed while dining at Commis. 

Roasted loin of beef and cepes, aged suet with vinegar and capers

Our final savory course was a roasted loin of beef with porchini mushrooms, potatoes in a house made vinaigrette with New Zealand spinach. A solid well executed dish, but nothing spectacular. The combination of raw spinach mixed with a slightly blanched version was a fun comparison. 

Beet chips, raspberry sorbet, cocoa

Our pallet cleanser course was a raspberry sorbet with thin beet chips atop cocoa. Similar to our amuse, there was a good balance of textures and flavors in this bite. From the earthy beets, to the tart sorbet and bitersweet cocoa, a playful intermezzo.

Peaches in cream with hemp seed cereal, frozen white corn pudding

For the final course, you get to choose between two desserts, a sweet and a savory. Chu-Toro opted for the sweet, a peach pana cotta with a white corn pudding, and hemp seed cereal. When i asked if Chu-Toro liked her dessert, she said she could eat a tub of the corn ice cream. It was pretty freaking yummy. 

Artisan cheeses brie, blue, blueberry compote with hazelnut bread and lavash

For a supplement of five dollars, I chose the cheese course for my dessert. It came with two cheese, a brie from France and a blue cheese, both which were good with the warm hazelnut bread. The real standout was blueberry compote which didn't look like anything special but was a delectable accompaniment that I ate every bite of. 

Petite fours

We finished with petite fours, a coffee (without warmed milk), and a reasonable bill. For what it is, Commis is a nice dining option with a real chance of tasting something spectacular. Our second visit was definitely better than our first, with notable refinements and improvements to the menu, the presentation, service and experience overall. I think that Commis is still evolving and has the potential to be one of the bay area's bests. For now, it will have to settle for being the gem of Oakland.

Rating 7/10

July, 23, 2011