Canteen

San Francisco, CA

Canteen is a small 15 person restaurants that offers simple, well-made, California cuisine. Michael Bauer has recently even credited owner/chef Dennis Leary as one of the original visionaries of the shift of fine dining to a more casual setting. Since it was only blocks away from the hotel I was at this past week, I finally got a chance to give it a try. Accompanied by Doctor Phil (he’s not a doctor, that’s just what we call him), we arrived on a Tuesday evening and sat at the bar. Tuesdays they have a fixed price menu for $40, so ordering was simple. Every seat was filled for the evening and on the menu was a Squash Soup with pumpkin seeds and pomegranate for starters. A Roasted Swordfish with greenwheat, kale and artichokes for the entree, and for dessert an almond cake with roasted pears. We also had a couple of beers, an amuse bouche and a very buttery soft roll.

Squash Soup with pumpkin seeds and pomegranate

The soup was rich but not heavy, combined with a unique combination of pumpkin seeds in the center, and a noticeable tart flavor for the pomegranate reduction. It was good, not great, and was a substantial sized offering. 

Roasted Swordfish with greenwheat, kale and artichokes

The roasted swordfish was next, simply prepared, lying atop a mirapoix with kale, artichokes. The fish was firm, but tender on the inside, so not overcooked, but due to the firm texture of the fish, not delicate either. It was satisfying and filling. 

Almond cake with roasted pears

Last was a good square serving size of almond cake, completely covered by a huge dollop of whipped cream and a small half roasted pear covered in a ginger candy sauce. The cake was moist and well flavored by almonds which contrasted interestingly with the ginger pear.

There wasn’t anything I didn’t like, but nothing that particularly stood out either. If you live in the area and are looking for a reasonably priced meal made with quality ingedients, kind service, and sound culinary techniques, Canteen is a good option. But it’s not something to go out of your way for and I probably won’t be back.

December 14, 2010
Rating 6/10