Commis

Bread and Butter

During our first anniversary weekend last year, we opted to dine at James Syhabout's Commis in Oakland, CA. Chu-Toro had read so much about it when it was opening and really wanted to dine here. A few months later it had been toasted with a Michelin star, some pretty lauded comments about how it was single-handedly making Oakland a dining destination, and nothing but rave reviews. Maybe we came too early? Before the chef was able to further refine his craft? It was a good meal, but looking back, there were very few memorable bites. Looking at the pictures posted, I question, what did that taste like? Something I never forget if its worth mentioning. I'll be the first to admit, I want to give Commis another try. Plus for what it's worth, it definitely falls into what is now the movement behind fine dining, in that it's not extremely expensive with a double digit course offering. Instead it was a reasonable 3 course meal for $59/person. Until I get a chance to review again, here are my initial images and impressions of Commis.

Soft Farm Egg with Potato and Alliums, fermented black garlic and pork jowl

I started with the Soft farm egg, my favorite dish of the night. It was a perfectly cooked egg that oozed wonderfully across the plate. Presentation was gorgeous and pork jowl was tender and flavorful.

Salad of Young Carrots, brown rice vinegar and honey, seaweed from Mendocino

Chu-Toro wanted to go for a lighter started and selected the salad of young carrots. Served on a marble slab plate, this was also a pleasant start, with each carrot offered a unique flavor from the next, well integrated by the sweet vinegar and honey sauce. The edible dirt, undoubtedly learned while at Manresa, reminded me of the into the garden concept, but more focused with a single vegetable. 

Ling Cod with Sweet Corn Curd, Crayfish Butter, Marsh Grass

Chu-Toro didn't remember much about the Ling Cod other than she must have like the "sweet corn curd," since she loves corn, but otherwise couldn't recall ever seeing this dish when looking at the picture. 

Poached then Roasted Duck, Marjoram in Goose Fat, Sugar Plums, Mulled Duck Broth

The part I remember most about the Duck entree was the Marjoram in Goose Fat. It just sounds like what it looked like, unhealthy. Other than that, the dish itself was also not memorable.

Slow Roasted Lamb Loin with Mortared Mint, Eggplant Stew with Sorrel, Coastal Huckleberries

Every lamb offered at a fine dining establishment comes with eggplant, and I've had some really good ones but this one didn't compare. Again good, but not a memorable dish. It was nice that Chef Syhabout came to the table to serve this one to us, of course, at the time I had no idea it was him.

2.4 GHz Chocolate Cake, Valrhona Guanaja, Blackberry, Avocado Ganache

I opted for the a full third item (lamb) and Chu-Toro went with the 2.4GHz chocolate dessert. Again, nothing memorable, I could not even remember if I liked the unique avocado ganache. 


I really wanted to like Commis and maybe will after another chance to, but my first visit, although fun was not as exciting of a culinary adventure as I had hoped for. The small "hold in the wall" style and exposed kitchen in the front of the restaurant was unique and entertaining. It left me wanting to sit at the bar in attempt to further appreciate Chef Syhabout's approach and I hope to do so soon. 


Rating 6.5/10
August 28, 2009