 |
| Yountville, CA |
What can you say to preface TFL. Viewed by many as the culinary pinnacle of food in the country, people just want to say they've been here once in their lives. Even when Thomas Kellar undergoes a major transition like losing chef Cory Lee (Benu) and appointing Timothy Hollingsworth as the new chef de cuisine, the acclaimed fine dining establishment doesn't miss a beat. They focus on the finest ingredients, the most premium quality and charge a whopping $240 per person for it, and thats just the standard menu. So on a cold dreary, rainy afternoon, we entered the infamous blue door and expected the best meal of our life. Did it live up to the expectation?
We were hoping for the famed oyster and pearls but instead received a variation of the classic, Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" with Island Creek Oyster Glaze and California Sturgeon Caviar. The "panna cotta" perfectly embodied a rich creamy cauliflower flavor combined with saltiness of the caviar. Texturally, it was exactly like panna cotta, a pretty cool technique beginning at the start of the menu. A really good first course.
 |
| Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" with Island Creek Oyster Glaze and California Sturgeon Caviar |
Next up was Sunchoke Veloute, Asian Pear, Pine Nuts and Watercress. Also a very rich and creamy soup, with balanced flavors, warm and wonderful. I'd never had sunchoke before and was a nice introduction to this ingredient.
 |
| Sunchoke Veloute, Asian Pear, Pine Nuts and Watercress |
The next course was Moulard Duck "Foie Gras En Terrine," "Confit de Canard," Flowering Quince, Cornichon, Frisee Lettuce and Dijon Mustard ($30 Supplement), also known as perfection. My favorite course of the meal, absolutely perfect and probably one of my top bites ever. Every fois continues to try to reach the excellence of this dish. The pickled vegetables really added a nice balance and contrast to the creamy, decedent fois.
 |
Moulard Duck "Foie Gras En Terrine," "Confit de Canard," Flowering Quince, Cornichon,
Frisee Lettuce and Dijon Mustard ($30 Supplement) |
Part of the perfection of this dish was the presentation of the brioche, perfectly toasted and warmed. Even more impressive though was that while enjoying my first diagonally cut slice, they took the other cooled slice and brought me another full fresh piece. Service and brioche unparalleled to any other.
 |
| Brioche, Butter and Salts |
The seafood course followed with Sauteed Fillet of Japanese Bluefin Tuna, Nicoise Olive, Fennel Bulb, Arugala, Saffron. If there was one misstep of the meal, it would have been this course. The tuna was dry, presumingly overcooked, a disappointment. We would have preferred to enjoy this large piece sashimi style.
 |
| Sauteed Fillet of Japanese Bluefin Tuna, Nicoise Olive, Fennel Bulb, Arugala, Saffron |
I'm not sure if I didn't properly understand this dish because I'd never had anything like it. The Florida Everglades Frog Legs "Boudin" Hobb's Bacon Tokyo Turnips, Green Pistachio, Meyer Lemon ($30 supplement) was a gelatinous sausage which I really tried to enjoy but found it difficult. The saving grace was the excellent meyer lemon and tokyo turnips.
 |
| Florida Everglades Frog Legs "Boudin" Hobb's Bacon Tokyo Turnips, Green Pistachio, Meyer Lemon |
When you think about an establishment like TFL, they always describe perfect execution. This was an example of it in the form of New Bedford Sea Scallop "Poelee" Garnet Yam, Chestnuts, Brussel Sprouts, Bourbon Maple Emulsion. This was the best scallop I've ever had, perfectly cooked, seared and browned wonderfully while maintaining a delicate sweet plump interior. Simply divine.
 |
| New Bedford Sea Scallop "Poelee" Garnet Yam, Chestnuts, Brussel Sprouts, Bourbon Maple Emulsion |
What could be a better follow-up to a perfect dish with another perfect dish. The Four Story Hill Farm Milk-Fed "Poularde" Soubise, swiss chard, honey poached cranberries and Walnut Jus is the best piece of chicken I've ever had. Juicy, tender, packed with flavor, I didn't realize chicken could taste this good. Similar to the feeling I had when we experienced chef Corey Lee's Beef Rib Cap at Benu, the best beef i've ever had. Both dishes relied on perfect cooking techniques and natural flavors extracted like I've never tasted before. You think, "is that what chicken tastes like?" Another home run.
 |
Four Story Hill Farm Milk-Fed "Poularde" Soubise, swiss chard, honey poached
cranberries and Walnut Jus |
I really wanted to like the Tartar of Kuroge Beef from Shiga, "PommesGaufrettes," Baby Beets, Black Truffle, Scallions and Jidori Hen Egg ($30 supplement), but maybe I'm realizing that maybe I'm just not into raw meats. A gorgeous presentation, the flavors of the tartar seemed very mild and overly peppered. Not a bad dish, but not my favorite.
 |
Tartar of Kuroge Beef from Shiga, "PommesGaufrettes," Baby Beets, Black Truffle,
Scallions and Jidori Hen Egg |
By the time we reached the Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Rib Eye, Panisse Eggplant, Piquillo Marmalade, Globe Artichoke, we were pretty stuffed. I honestly don't recall if this dish was awesome or not, but looking at the picture now, I want to eat it again.
 |
| Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Rib Eye, Panisse Eggplant, Piquillo Marmalade, Globe Artichoke |
I loved the Cheese cart at Cyrus, but really appreciate when a thoughtful predetermined cheese course is already created, in this case the "Monte Enebro," Black Pepper Scone, Celery Branch, and Apricot Puree. One of my favorite cheese dishes (the other was Stinton Cheesecake at Meadowood) and an amazing little memorable black pepper scone. I've still never had a scone like it.
 |
| "Monte Enebro," Black Pepper Scone, Celery Branch, and Apricot Puree |
The first dessert and pallet cleanser was the "Dark and Stormy," Maui Gold Pinapple Sorbet, Spiced Gingerbread and Gros Michael Bananas, an awesome sorbet.
 |
| "Dark and Stormy," Maui Gold Pinapple Sorbet, Spiced Gingerbread and Gros Michael Bananas |
The second dessert and heavier pallet offering was the "Gateau Saint Nizier au Manjari," Mango Chili Relish, Valrhona Cocoa Nibs, Lime Foam and Conconut Milk Sorbet. Again excellent sorbet.
 |
"Gateau Saint Nizier au Manjari," Mango Chili Relish, Valrhona Cocoa Nibs, Lime Foam
and Conconut Milk Sorbet |
A really nice and light Bakewell Tart, Huckelberries, Marcona Almonds, and Creme Friache Sherbet was up next, a very good dessert with a nice texture contrast with the almonds.
 |
| Bakewell Tart, Huckelberries, Marcona Almonds, and Creme Friache Sherbet |
If you can imagine, there was yet one more dessert, a simple sendoff apple tart, a wonderful buttery tart crust.
 |
| Apple Tart |
If things weren't awesome enough, we had the best chocolate cover powered sugar macadamia nuts ever. Even though I was stuffed to the brim, I couldn't stop eating them. We even took the leftovers back with our Mignardises, a variety of truffles with various fillings.
 |
| The best chocolate covered macadamia ever |
 |
| Mignardises |
We took our traditional tour of the kitchen before we left, a large and pristine work space with their 3 star Michelin plaque proudly displayed. Was it the best meal ever? I think it was pretty darn close, and at the time there was no reason for it to take the cake. There were a couple dishes that I didn't particularity enjoy (frog, tartar, tuna) and some that were lights out amazing (fois, scallop and chicken). I just can't wait till my next visit to see what Kellar's flagship can introduce me to next.
 |
| The French Laundry Kitchen |
Rating 8.5/10
December 12, 2009
No comments:
Post a Comment