Monday, November 8, 2010

Ubuntu

Napa, CA
Ubuntu was one of those places I really doubted that I could like. Why? Because it's a vegetarian joint and I'm a meat eater. Well, after enough pressing by Chu-Toro and all the lauded national attention, we decided to give Ubuntu a try. Actually it was a surprise lunch destination and Chu-Toro was shocked I finally caved.  So on a cold rainy Sunday afternoon, we parked behind the quite large restaurant and gave the vegetarian angle a shot. In fact, I think it was the first vegetarian restaurant I've ever been to in my entire life. Upon entering, you notice the high ceilings, the large dining area and the exposed kitchen. There's also an upstairs were the yoga studio resides. If it were located on a skyscraper in NYC, it would be a really cool loft.

Bread and Butter
Chickpea fritter
Marinated Olives
Lavender Marcona Almonds
We began with a trio of small bites, they call them snacks, with a chickpea fritter (piping hot, light and crispy), lavender marcona almonds (an unique flavor combination) and the marinate olives (good). 

Oca
Chu-Toro went with the oca dish. Truth be told, we've never had oca, never heard of it and wasn't planning on ordering it. We asked for a recommendation since most of the menu is difficult to comprehend, featuring vegetables you rarely hear of, and this was the first one that the server offered. Boy, did she nail it. I still haven't had oca outside this meal, but not sure I need to. It was really good here. A simple crunchy, radish like texture, it amazed me that this vegetable was the central ingredient of the dish. The array of flavors and sauces on the plate allowed us to enjoy oca from a number of perspectives. Extremely creative and enjoyable.

Lentil soup
On the rainy day, I went with a safe order on the menu, a lentil soup. It was warm and tasty, but nothing earth shattering like the oca for me. 
Turnips
We decided to go for another round hoping to strike lighting twice. We ordered the turnips with a fondue sauce and the bok choy in an Asian flavor inspired broth. The turnips were good, providing a garden variety of different types and sizes, but the fondue sauce was a bit heavy. The bok choy was pretty good too, but weren't as impressed with the flavor profile. We generally aren't by Asian inspired dishes.
Bok Choy
So, I made it through a vegetarian meal and surprisingly was impressed. I like restaurants that expose me to flavors I've never had before, and at Ubuntu they are able to do this with vegetables. I admit, it's not that filling, and I miss the proteins, but at least for one meal, the variety and creativity behind a dishes outweighed my desire for meats. I haven't been back, but have no problem giving this place a thumbs up.

Rating 7/10
December 13, 2009

Coi

San Francisco, CA
With a handful of highly touted dining destinations in San Francisco, Coi stands alone in the city with the illustrious two Michelin star rating. However, does it stand up to the others on the list in the area (Manresa, Meadowood, Cyrus)? Located near to strip clubs and bars on Broadway, entering Coi takes you away from that atmosphere into a dining destination. We sat in the lounge, where you can order the full tasting menu, or go a la carte. We went the former, and this is our report.


Frozen Mandarin Sour, Mandarin Ice, Kumquat, Angostura Bitter
We started with the Frozen Mandarin Sour, hard to photograph and hard to describe. I would classify it as a citrus, refreshing shaved ice. It felt more like an intermezzo between the end of your entrĂ©es and your first dessert.
Oysters Rockefeller, California Style, Bloomsdale Spinach, Vegetable Mignonette, Horseradish
Next up was Oysters Rockefeller, California Style, a winner and probably the most unique oyster dish I've ever had. The oysters were covered in gelatinousness wrapper flavored like the sea. A spinach and vegetable mignonette accompanied the fresh oysters, beautifully and interestingly presented.

"Calcots" New Onions, Smoke and Spice, Hazelnut-Almond Puree
Not sure I appreciated "Calcots" New Onions, a variety of green onion, which I found this jello-y and salty. Not my fav.

Early Spring, Our Buttermilk, Cherry Blossoms, First Shoots of Wild Fennel
The "early spring" course featuring cherry blossoms and baby wild fennel was very good. Not as good as the into the garden at Manresa, but better than the similar dish we had at Commis. We're big fennel fans and having it at Coi truly showcased the vegetable and its natural flavors. The "dirt" encompassed a grainy texture which fit well with the gorgeous plating. 
Abalone/Asparagus (Raw & Cooked), Veal Jus, Seville Orange Mint
My favorite dish of the evening and still my favorite abalone dish was Daniel Patterson's Abalone/Asparagus (Raw & Cooked), with Veal Jus. The thinly sliced abalone and asparagus have a surprising similar texture and combined together offered great synergy to this course. This was the most tender abalone I've ever had and my biggest complaint was that I wanted more of it. 
Young Carrot Roasted in Hay, Spouts, Radish Powder, Shaved Pecorino
The young carrots roasted in hay was up next, an odd placement in the progression of the meal. Usually, the heaviness of flavors ramp up through the meal and so the carrots, which were perfectly fine, seemed misplaced. Also, it is tough to follow-up a perfect abalone course with a plate of carrots. This could have been substituted for the fennel course, but otherwise felt unnecessary.
Savory Wild Mushroom Porridge, Brown Butter, Garlic Confit, Wood Sorrel
I recall enjoying the Savory Wild Mushroom Porridge, with Brown Butter, Garlic Confit, and Wood Sorrel, although looking back at the picture, it's not the most attractive dish. It was a very savory and filling porridge. I'm not sure if part of the strategy is to offer less protein courses and fill you up with porridge, but the chef plays to his strengths, and this was a successful course.
Steak Bearnaise (sort of), Aged Marin Sun Farms Beef, Marrow, Herbs
The first and only meat course was the Aged Marin Sun Farms Beef with a "Bearnaise." I don't recall being impressed with the execution of the cooking of the beef and although was again well presented, did not satisfy my protein craving.
Salers (Rodolphe le Meunier), Wild Arugula, Medhool Date
The cheese course, Salers (Rodolphe le Meunier), Wild Arugula, and Medhool Date, was pretty boring. The dish was picturesque, but thought and effort behind it was minimal. In comparison to some awesome, creative, cheese courses we've had before, this one was a let down.
Lime Curd and meringue, Aloe Vera, Shiso
The Lime Curd and meringue, Aloe Vera, and Shiso tart combined some of my most beloved flavors together, lime and shiso into one of the best desserts I've ever had. Featuring a crisp, tart and light profile, the dessert was a perfect end to the meal.
Cake and Ice Cream, Carmaelized Chocolate Cake, Raw Milk Ice Cream
There actually was one more dessert, the Cake and Ice Cream, but could not remember a thing about it. It sure wasn't a lime shiso tart though.
Coi Kitchen and Staff (sans Daniel Patterson)
Our venture into the kitchen began disappointedly because chef Patterson wasn't present, but ended up being one of the best visits in a high profile kitchen. The staff was extremely cordial, discussing with us our favorite dishes from the evening and even gathered to pose for a picture with us. Pretty cool, given it was still relatively early on a Saturday night. I think the complaints about Coi are pretty accurate, they don't feature a lot of proteins and you may drop $135 per person and not leave full. For us, it was about the experience and appreciating the creativity of the dishes that they had to offer. Whenever we can walk away with a few bites that remain the best we've ever had (abalone and shiso tart), I think you have to call it a success. And although Coi wouldn't be on the top of our list for a fine dining venue, it is a great choice if you haven't been there and we wouldn't object going back again.

Rating 7/10
March 27, 2010

Taylor's Refresher

St Helena, CA
There is a cult following to this place, now know as Gott's Roadside, but  to us it will always be known as Taylor's Refresher. We've been here a couple times now and it's been solid every time. I think given the size, it can be considered pretty pricey, but if you want a grill to made burger relatively quick in the area, this is the place to come. In addition to the "normal" burgers, they offer a Ahi burger with wasabi which is also a popular favorite, a variety of shakes and fry options and a large seating area for kids to run around and pets to enjoy dining with their owners.


Spicy tomato soup and shake
I ordered the western bacon blue ring, topped with an onion ring, crumbled blue cheese, bacon, pickles, red onion and BBQ sauce on a toasted egg bun with a side of sweet potato fries. Chu-Toro went with the spicy tomato soup and a shake.
Western bacon blue ring burger and sweet potato fries
During our first visit, we saw celeb chef and local Michael Chiarello, my man crush. That was the highlight of my meal. Overall the food is good, not amazing, but reliable and solid. You're going to leave happy whenever you have a combination of sweet potato fries and a creamy shake. We've come back a couple times, but it's generally a dent in our wallet for a quick bite here. 

Rating 7/10
Shaddy Approved

The Cheese Steak Shop

Vacaville, CA
When there's a five hour power outage in your city, you can't go grocery shopping, you can't cook and even the In and Out is closed, what do you do? Well that's the question that Chu-Toro and I faced this Sunday and we opted to head West towards Vacaville for some window shopping. As we drove over, our stomachs rumbled, realizing we had skipped lunch. Vacaville is chain central, but at least there are decent chains. On our way to Amici's for some garlic knots and solid chain pizza, we encountered The Cheese Steak Shop. I had been craving a cheesesteak for some time so we decided to give it a try instead. The interior had about 8 small tables and framed photos on the wall paying homage to Philly. A Dr. J jersey, a picture of Geno's and Pat's, and of the original Cheese Steak Shop in Pinole lined the small interior. Behind the counter was a metal shelf with large jars of hot and sweet peppers aligning each level. You can order a 7, 10, or 15 inch cheesesteak and get the classic (steak, cheese, grilled onions, hot and/or sweet peppers) or a variation with additional toppings (like the Hoagie, Mushroom, Pizza, Pepperoni).

Half of the 15" Hoagie and steak fries
We decided to share the 15' hoagie, comes with lettuce, tomatoes, and mayonnaise with a small side of steak fries and a drink. The sandwich was made fresh, was quite large and pretty darn tasty. The hot and sweet peppers in particular made the cheesesteak satisfying. The meat and melted cheese combined well in soft roll and filled us up pretty good. My only minor complaint was that the contents weren't really pushed down into the roll, making each bite imbalance, too much meat in one bite, and too much lettuce and bread in the next. For $14 bucks, it was a solid meal and we ended up skipping dinner that night because we were still full. It's not a place I would ever go out of my way to have again, but if I'm ever in the mood for a cheesesteak in Vacaville, I'd come back to the Cheese Shop. 

Rating 6.5/10
November 7, 2010

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Terra

Terra Restaurant, located in  St. Helena, CA features eclectic cuisine by chef-owners Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani. Placed in a dimly lit dining area, we dined with Midas and Goldie on a foodie excursion in hopes to find amazing food.  These same owners own another Michelin Star at Ame, a similar upscale version of Terra (who have a star of their own) located in San Francisco. Asian flavors are prevalent through many items on the menu, but a range of dishes span global influences. 

I started off with a heavy and creamy Monterey squid soup, a fine appetizer, but lacked any depth of flavor. I'd prefer the clam chowder at Hog Island.
Monterey squid soup
Chu-Toro's fried rock shrimp salad was better, providing an abundance of tasty, lightly, breaded rock shrimp and a bold chive mustard sauce. A hearty and flavorful starter.
Fried Rock Shrimp with Organic Greens and Chive Mustard Sauce
Chu-Toro went with the Broiled Sake Marinated Alaskan Black Cod and Shrimp Dumplings in Shiso Broth, a house  favorite. The dish was a bit salty, but the fish was well prepared and not overcooked, my pet peeve. A good dish, but not a memorable one and can't compare to a similar dish we've had at Cryus.

Broiled Sake Marinated Alaskan Black Cod and Shrimp 
Dumplings in Shiso Broth
I went with the Fried quail, which on paper sounded awesome. It was actually a pretty good dish, really heavy and filling. But I guess at $33 bucks, I was hoping for more. There was nothing really disappointing about the dish, but I don't know if I would've been any less happy with some Popeye's chicken for five bucks.
Fried quail with bacon, mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts
We ended with the most sub-par chocolate bunt cake I've ever had. Really don't have anything else to say about it other than we didn't finish it.
Chocolate Bundt Cake
The service was uninspired, it felt like we were the last people on Earth that our server wanted to speak with. The water was so awful that we had to order sparkling. The food was average at best. There were some good parts, the shrimp was the standout, but otherwise, not a meal that was worth over $150 dollars. Good thing we had great company to distract us from the disappointment of the meal. The good thing is we can cross it off or list (Ame too) and move on to the next foodie excursion. 


Rating 5.5/10
March 20, 2010

Redd

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Yountville, CA
Yountville's Redd is another one of the well respected fine dining establishment in Yountville. Located on Washington Street, with about a half dozen other Michelin starred restaurants, the two things I really like about Redd before taking a bite of their food are, that there is dog friendly outdoor seating (Shaddy Approved!) and that their tasting menu features a choice of two dishes each course, something that Chu-Toro and I love! Twice as many dishes to try is fun and exciting for us. 
We started we two different raw fish appetizers, a yellowfin, tuna tartar and hamachi sashimi.  Both were good dishes, but neither were unique or memorable. Throguh Asain inspired flavors, by the use of Asian pears and edamame, both were well executed and a tasty start. 

yellowfin tuna tartar, asian pear, avocado, chili oil, fried rice
Sashimi of hamachi, sticky rice, edamame, lime ginger  sauce

Next up, I went with the diver scallops and Chu-Toro had the Skatwing. The scallop was a nice dish, well executed with a creamy cauliflower puree, a tasty, solid dish.

Caramelized diver scallops, cauliflower puree, almonds, balsamic reduction
The skatewing was the first misstep of the evening, dry and overcooked. The clams were also overwhelmed by the extremely salty chorizo. This addition seemed extremely out of place.
Skatewing, creamy jasmine rice, clams, chorizo, saffron curry nage
Chu-Toro went with the pork belly, also a little overcooked, but a pretty solid otherwise topped with a fresh apple garish and an apple puree beneath, a nice balance.
Glazed pork belly, apple puree, burdock, soy caramel
The dish of the night was the roasted quail with porchini mushrooms risotto, the best risotto I've ever had in my life. Creamy, rich, and extremely flavorful, it still remains unlike any risotto I've had before. In fact, this dish turned me towards ordering risotto at other restaurants, but still have not anything close to Redd's.
Roasted quail, porchini mushrooms risotto
My next course, the Sonoma lamb loin, was a somewhat played out combination; having had it about a half a dozen times in the past year. This dish did not stand out amongst the others i had, but a decent offering.
Sonoma lamb loin, roasted peppers, chickpeas, tapenade
Chu-Toro's final entrĂ©e was the New York steak and short rib cannelloni, a strange concept, but unlike any we've had before. The components of this dish did not really gel together well, but appreciated it being different for a simple steak course.
Prime new york steak, shortrib cannelloni, carrots, peas, romaine
The trio of peanut butter desserts was really good and a fun variation of textures centered around peanuts. The honeycomb parfait was the most original and our favorite.
Peanut butter, milk chocolate gianduja, peanut honeycomb parfait
The sweet corn fritters was the final dessert, Chu-Toro selected this one because she loves corn everything. Although she's not a big cherry fan, the tartness offered a nice balance between the sweet and crunchy corn fritter. 
Sweet corn fritters, cherries, vanilla-corn ice cream
We had a really fun time at Redd and although we weren't wowed by the courses, most of the dishes were good and well cooked. You're not going to find cutting edge flavors or unique combinations, but the execution was there throughout the meal and we would return for a nice outdoor meal with Shaddy. Also, it's still served the best risotto I've ever had.

Rating 7/10
July 19, 2009
Shaddy Approved

Vic's Chaat Corner

Berkeley, CA
Vic's Chaat Corner located in Berkeley, CA is a well known, local, bargain restaurant offering authentic, fresh, Indian food. By no means are we experts in rating Indian food, because admittedly its hard for us to differentiate good and great Indian cuisine, but we certainly know what we like and think Vic's is pretty darn good. They also offer a full display case of desserts and a small grocery center next door. Whenever we are in the East Bay and are craving Indian food, this is our place of choice.



Rating 7.5/10
March 28, 2010

Friday, November 5, 2010

The French Laundry

Yountville, CA
What can you say to preface TFL. Viewed by many as the culinary pinnacle of food in the country, people just want to say they've been here once in their lives. Even when Thomas Kellar undergoes a major transition like losing chef Cory Lee (Benu) and appointing Timothy Hollingsworth as the new chef de cuisine, the acclaimed fine dining establishment doesn't miss a beat. They focus on the finest ingredients, the most premium quality and charge a whopping $240 per person for it, and thats just the standard menu. So on a cold dreary, rainy afternoon, we entered the infamous blue door and expected the best meal of our life. Did it live up to the expectation? 

Table Setting
Bread










The infamous branded laundry pin holds your napkin on a perfectly placed table on simple white cloth.  We sat in the downstairs dining room next to the fireplace. Opting to go with beer rather than wine, we were started off with two lovely amuse bouche, two small warm cheese puffs (awesome)  and salmon in a cone (also good).
  
Amuse Bouche - Cheese Puffs
Amuse Bouche - Salmon













We were hoping for the famed oyster and pearls but instead received a variation of the classic, Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" with Island Creek Oyster Glaze and California Sturgeon Caviar. The "panna cotta" perfectly embodied a rich creamy cauliflower flavor combined with saltiness of the caviar. Texturally, it was exactly like panna cotta, a pretty cool technique beginning at the start of the menu.  A really good first course.
Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" with Island Creek Oyster Glaze and California Sturgeon Caviar
Next up was Sunchoke Veloute, Asian Pear, Pine Nuts and Watercress. Also a very rich and creamy soup, with balanced flavors, warm and wonderful. I'd never had sunchoke before and was a nice introduction to this ingredient.

Sunchoke Veloute, Asian Pear, Pine Nuts and Watercress

The next course was Moulard Duck "Foie Gras En Terrine," "Confit de Canard," Flowering Quince, Cornichon, Frisee Lettuce and Dijon Mustard ($30 Supplement), also known as perfection. My favorite course of the meal, absolutely perfect and probably one of my top bites ever. Every fois continues to try to reach the excellence of this dish. The pickled vegetables really added a nice balance and contrast to the creamy, decedent fois.

Moulard Duck "Foie Gras En Terrine," "Confit de Canard," Flowering Quince, Cornichon, 
Frisee Lettuce and Dijon Mustard ($30 Supplement)
Part of the perfection of this dish was the presentation of the brioche, perfectly toasted and warmed. Even more impressive though was that while enjoying my first diagonally cut slice, they took the other cooled slice and brought me another full fresh piece. Service and brioche unparalleled to any other.
Brioche, Butter and Salts
The seafood course followed with Sauteed Fillet of Japanese Bluefin Tuna, Nicoise Olive, Fennel Bulb, Arugala, Saffron. If there was one misstep of the meal, it would have been this course. The tuna was dry, presumingly overcooked, a disappointment. We would have preferred to enjoy this large piece sashimi style. 
Sauteed Fillet of Japanese Bluefin Tuna, Nicoise Olive, Fennel Bulb, Arugala, Saffron
I'm not sure if I didn't properly understand this dish because I'd never had anything like it. The Florida Everglades Frog Legs "Boudin" Hobb's Bacon Tokyo Turnips, Green Pistachio, Meyer Lemon ($30 supplement) was a gelatinous sausage which I really tried to enjoy but found it difficult. The saving grace was the excellent meyer lemon and tokyo turnips.


Florida Everglades Frog Legs "Boudin" Hobb's Bacon Tokyo Turnips, Green Pistachio, Meyer Lemon
When you think about an establishment like TFL, they always describe perfect execution. This was an example of it in the form of New Bedford Sea Scallop "Poelee" Garnet Yam, Chestnuts, Brussel Sprouts, Bourbon Maple Emulsion. This was the best scallop I've ever had, perfectly cooked, seared and browned wonderfully while maintaining a delicate sweet plump interior. Simply divine.
New Bedford Sea Scallop "Poelee" Garnet Yam, Chestnuts, Brussel Sprouts, Bourbon Maple Emulsion

What could be a better follow-up to a perfect dish with another perfect dish. The Four Story Hill Farm Milk-Fed "Poularde" Soubise, swiss chard, honey poached cranberries and Walnut Jus is the best piece of chicken I've ever had. Juicy, tender, packed with flavor, I didn't realize chicken could taste this good. Similar to the feeling I had when we experienced chef Corey Lee's Beef Rib Cap at Benu, the best beef i've ever had. Both dishes relied on perfect cooking techniques and natural flavors extracted like I've never tasted before. You think, "is that what chicken tastes like?" Another home run.

Four Story Hill Farm Milk-Fed "Poularde" Soubise, swiss chard, honey poached 
cranberries and Walnut Jus

I really wanted to like the Tartar of Kuroge Beef from Shiga, "PommesGaufrettes," Baby Beets, Black Truffle, Scallions and Jidori Hen Egg ($30 supplement), but maybe I'm realizing that maybe I'm just not into raw meats. A gorgeous presentation, the flavors of the tartar seemed very mild and overly peppered. Not a bad dish, but not my favorite.

Tartar of Kuroge Beef from Shiga, "PommesGaufrettes," Baby Beets, Black Truffle, 
Scallions and Jidori Hen Egg

By the time we reached the Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Rib Eye, Panisse Eggplant, Piquillo Marmalade, Globe Artichoke, we were pretty stuffed. I honestly don't recall if this dish was awesome or not, but looking at the picture now, I want to eat it again.

Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Rib Eye, Panisse Eggplant, Piquillo Marmalade, Globe Artichoke
I loved the Cheese cart at Cyrus, but really appreciate when a thoughtful predetermined cheese course is already created, in this case the "Monte Enebro," Black Pepper Scone, Celery Branch, and Apricot Puree. One of my favorite cheese dishes (the other was  Stinton Cheesecake at Meadowood) and an amazing little memorable black pepper scone. I've still never had a scone like it.
"Monte Enebro," Black Pepper Scone, Celery Branch, and Apricot Puree
The first dessert and pallet cleanser was the "Dark and Stormy," Maui Gold Pinapple Sorbet, Spiced Gingerbread and Gros Michael Bananas, an awesome sorbet.
"Dark and Stormy," Maui Gold Pinapple Sorbet, Spiced Gingerbread and Gros Michael Bananas
The second dessert and heavier pallet offering was the "Gateau Saint Nizier au Manjari," Mango Chili Relish, Valrhona Cocoa Nibs, Lime Foam and Conconut Milk Sorbet. Again excellent sorbet.
"Gateau Saint Nizier au Manjari," Mango Chili Relish, Valrhona Cocoa Nibs, Lime Foam
and Conconut Milk Sorbet

A really nice and light Bakewell Tart, Huckelberries, Marcona Almonds, and Creme Friache Sherbet was up next, a very good dessert with a nice texture contrast with the almonds.

Bakewell Tart, Huckelberries, Marcona Almonds, and Creme Friache Sherbet
If you can imagine, there was yet one more dessert, a simple sendoff apple tart, a wonderful buttery tart crust.
Apple Tart
If things weren't awesome enough, we had the best chocolate cover powered sugar macadamia nuts ever. Even though I was stuffed to the brim, I couldn't stop eating them. We even took the leftovers back with our Mignardises, a variety of truffles with various fillings.

The best chocolate covered macadamia ever
Mignardises
We took our traditional tour of the kitchen before we left, a large and pristine work space with their 3 star Michelin plaque proudly displayed. Was it the best meal ever? I think it was pretty darn close, and at the time there was no reason for it to take the cake. There were a couple dishes that I didn't particularity enjoy (frog, tartar, tuna) and some that were lights out amazing (fois, scallop and chicken). I just can't wait till my next visit to see what Kellar's flagship can introduce me to next.
The French Laundry Kitchen
Rating 8.5/10
December 12, 2009