Le Bernardin***

New York City, NY

Somewhere between watching No Reservations, Avec Eric and Top Chef, Eric Ripert has been painted as a culinary god in our eyes. Being on the West Coast, there seemed to be no restaurant that rivaled the famed Le Bernardin in Manhattan.  Sure we have two three Michelin starred establishments (TFL and Meadowood) and Michael Cimarusti is a lauded seafood chef at Providence in LA, but it wasn't Eric Ripert. So for our first trip to New York in six years, the first reservation I tried to get was at Le Bernardin. Problem was, there weren’t any dinner res available. No worries, I heard their lunch service was just as spectacular and a steal at $70 for three courses (as opposed to a $225 tasting) with the exact same menu as the dinner menu.

Our Table

So we walked about ten minutes from 5^th Ave where we were staying, for a luxe Friday lunch. I was beaming with anticipation, and Chu-Toro wanted me to enjoy myself, so we opted not to bring the behemoth SLR. But I did sneak in my point and shoot for a couple pics. The overall feeling in the restaurant itself is stuffy, almost dated. I think that’s just the classic approach/feel of French fine dining. We were seated in the corner per our requests and started off with menus, crostini and salmon spread. We munched on the tasty but not mind blowing salmon spread, and were offered bread from a basket before our first course arrived. Chu-Toro went with the brioche and I the rosemary and olive breadstick. Both were good, but I wished they were warmer.

Salmon Spread

For our appetizers both opted for items from the simply raw section as appetizers. I selected the tuna, thinly pounded layers of yellow fin tuna, foie gras, toasted baugette, shaved chives and extra virgin oilve oil, Chu-Toro went with Kampachi tartar with marinated Japanese cucumbers, and aged citrus vinegar. Upon arrival of our first course, Chu-Toro’s kampachi was visually appealing and mine was the wrong dish. There are two tuna appetizer options, and they gave me the wrong one. So as Chu-Toro had to agonize with a beautiful tartar sitting in front of her, we waited for my tuna. It did arrive about 5-10 minutes later, a minor hiccup, but an irritating one.

tuna, thinly pounded layers of yellow fin tuna, foie gras, toasted baugette,
shaved chives and extra virgin oilve oil

The famed pounded tuna course with foie has been something I have been dying to try for years. The first bite was extremely underwhelming. I only tasted olive oil. It was good olive oil, but the fish did not explode with flavor as expected. However, as I got to the foie, savored the flavors, and allow the ingredients to melt in my mouth, it ended up being a very good dish. I still contest that there’s too much oil used on it, but it was a really bold combination of sushi quality tuna and just the right amount of smooth, rich, delicate foie.

Kampachi tartar with marinated Japanese cucumbers, and aged citrus vinegar

Where my dish was bold, rich and creamy, Chu-Toro’s was much the opposite; light, citrusy, and fresh, the perfect start she was looking for in her kampachi tartar. The use of cucumbers and a little kick from the spices made it a very appealling way to start her meal.

Poached Turbot; Wild Mushroom, Black Truffle Custard,  Spice Squab Jus

We were really hoping these entrées would add on to the very good but first course. To our surprise, both of our items were drenched in heavy sauces. I went with the turbot, mainly because it was on the tasting menu, it seems to be a hot fish found on many menus nowadays, and the sound of a squab jus sounded delicious. It was a solid, tasty dish. The jus served as a broth, really packing the flavors of Chinese five spice. And the fillet itself was surprisingly very large. But the turbot I had at Providence was cooked better, had a more unique flavor profile and was just more delicate. Part of the reason I was disappointed was that I did not feel I was receiving a three Michelin star dish and it didn’t make me change the way I appreciate fish entrees (although another offering at Momofuku Ko did). I will very rarely order fish off a menu unless it comes highly recommended and even then, it’s simply good. I guess I just prefer my fish unadulterated and raw in most cases from a sushi chef. I was just hoping Eric Ripert’s fish could change the way I think of goat (Meadowood), beef (Benu), or vegetables (Manresa).

Seared Yellowtail King Fish, Truffle risotto, spring vegetables, black truffle emulsion

Chu-Toro’s Hiramasa, king yellowtail, came prepared in thick, short, slices with a small side of risotto, then drenched in a black truffle emulsion.  I thought her fish was much better without the sauce, and it allowed the natural flavors of the fish to shine. However, the blending of flavors as a whole on her dish did work well, trying to provide sweetness of the fish standing through the heavy truffle.  Again, it was a good dish, but nothing mind blowing or out of the ordinary that you would hope to get at one of the best restaurants in the world.

Laiskonis Egg

I will credit Le Bernardin that I was pretty darn full at this point. But the show continued, starting with our pre-dessert, the Laiskonis egg. Some people say this is the best bite they experience at Le Bernadin. Executive pastry chef Michael Laiskonis is highly lauded in his own right. The egg presentation is not new to us as an amuse bouche or appetizer, but was a first from a dessert perspective. The egg was a mini milk chocolate pot de creme with a caramel foam, maple syrup and Maldon sea salt. Beautifully layered, it was chocolaty, rich, creamy, sweet with a small saltiness, overall a perfect pre-dessert.

Gianduja Cream, Orange Hazelnuts, Honey, Bananas, Brown Butter Ice Cream

For our final course, Chu-Toro decided to go with the hazelnut dessert (above)  and I the citrus (below). Both desserts were good, but did not stand up to the depth of flavors of the egg. 

Lime Parfait, Meringue, Avocado Puree, Mint, Grapefruit-Tequila Sorbet

We were also given a small basket of fresh warm almond and pistachio cookies with our desserts. I liked the almond one, but didn't care too much for the pistachio. 

Fresh Almond and Pistachio cookies

I’m really glad we've cross Le Bernardin off our list, and have no love lost for Eric Ripert, but have come to realize that maybe our style and our generation has moved away from attentive, stuffy decor and service and classic French prep and has moved on to the more whimsical, playful, creativity found at places such as Commonwealth and wd-50 that drive food forward. Even Benu has taken a different minimalistic approach to the fine dining scene that I enjoy. Overall, we had fun, enjoyed the experience and who knows may be compelled to come back for a full tasting one day.

Rating 7/10

March 4, 2011

Hog Island Oyster Co. Tomales Bay

We've been to Hog Island Oyster Co. about a half dozen times and love it. Despite its $8 per person picnic cost, it's convenient because you're provided a shucker, glove, hot sauce, lemons and their "hog wash" mignonette to shuck your own oysters. They also have an oyster bar that shucks it for you for about $2 an oyster, and sells alcohol, bread, and cheese. 

So after a couple hours of letting Shadow run on Dillon Beach, we built up an appetite and drove twenty minutes down Highway 1 to shuck our own oysters. I didn't take any pictures because it's not really exciting, it's just a bag of raw oysters and my hands were busy shucking anyways. We bought a bag of 50 extra smalls ($35) and an additional dozen smalls sweetwaters ($12) with some bread, Mt. Tam cheese and a glass of Domaine Chandon Rose. The weather held up and it was a perfect cool, sunny 60 degree afternoon in Marshall. It can be a windy trek to make it out here, but if you love oysters, I'd recommend coming out to enjoy the view, the atmosphere and the oysters.

Rating 8.5/10

February 21, 2011

Shadow at Dillon Beach

Shadow chasing Chu-Toro 

Racing Shadow down a sand dune

I'm ready to go to Hog Island, it's Shaddy Approved!

Downtown Bakery and Creamery

Downtown Bakery and Creamery seems to be the favorite place for locals and tourists alike. Its always busy and well known for their delicious, fresh baked goods. For our final morning in Healdsburg, we grabbed a couple pastries and coffee and enjoyed them on our balcony with the Chronicle. 

Sticky Bun

Maybe their most popular item, besides the breakfast pizza that we were too full to try, the sticky bun was excellent. Warm, soft, not overly sweet or glazed by icing just a perfect classic breakfast item and the best of the lot.

Donut Muffin

I was intrigued by the donut muffin because it was a total novel idea that I'd never heard of, but I was confused by its texture, its flavor. Glad I tried it, but probably wouldn't order it again.

Blueberry Scone

We really enjoyed the scone that was surprisingly light, flaky and moist inside. It had a good crumble and taste.

Almond Croissant

Our classic default order. It wasn't anything special, but we can never resist the almond croissant.

Rating 7/10

February 21, 2011

Barn Diva

Healdsburg, CA

I struggled with our decision to dine at Barndiva for our final dinner in Healdsburg. We were staying at Hotel Healdsburg, so it made sense to try the popular Dry Creek Kitchen. We could have gone to Douglas Keane's new steakhouse Shimo or returned to the beloved Cyrus. I was a little apprehensive to keep our reservation at Barndiva simply because many of my friends have actually dined there, and while they enjoyed their meal, they didn't seem wowed and they know we're critical eaters. But I was intrigued by the menu, so we kept our plans.

Bread

Upon entry into the converted barn, from the unique coat rack made of shoes mannequins to the dramatic high ceilings, the long bar and various beautiful types of artworks hanging upon every wall, it was an impressively designed restaurant. I wish I could say the same about the tables, which were wrought iron, small and awkwardly positioned for our legs, not very comfortable. We decided to go with the tasting menu, five courses for a very reasonable $75 per person. We were started off by bread, which was unimpressive, but nicely presented on a cutting board with a small amount of butter and salt.

Our great drinks

We were recommended by Goldie, who had been at BarnDiva the weekend before, to go with the dealer's choice for our drink order. You give a couple parameters to the bartender and they come up with a custom drink and Goldie loved hers. Chu-Toro received a champagne drink with grapefruit bitters and yuzu infused simple syrup which she really enjoyed. I was pleasantly recommended a Fantome Saison beer, from a Belgium brewery I had never heard of located in Ardennes forest. Thomas, our server, explained that this beer is produced only six times a year, using local herbs and flowers forged from the forest during the particular season, creating a unique flavor profile that has made it his favorite beer. I must admit, it was not undersold, and as I continued to drink it throughout the evening with different dishes, the complexity of the flavors appeared. Thomas did a great job of keeping it chilled and refilling my glass also, a very nice touch of service for a casual venue. In fact, the service all evening was excellent.

Crispy Sweetbreads, Poached Quail Egg, Cauliflower

Our first course was crispy sweetbreads, atop a puree of cauliflower with slivers of almond, golden raisins, and tiny cauliflower crowns with a poached quail egg. The combination of ingredients was well balanced, although I thought the flavor of the sweetbreads was lost in its crispy preparation. A nice start nonetheless.

Crab Salad - Grapefruit, beets, avocado

Next up was a beautifully presented, refreshing crab salad with bright colors of two types of beets, grapefruit and avocado. I never go out of my way to order beets, but enjoy them when they are featured on a dish like this, adding to the great presentation and an earthy flavor. 

Whole Roasted Chicken

Carved Tableside

I've never been a great fan of ordering chicken at restaurants for a new reasons. First off, it seems easy to make at home, its chicken. Secondly, it's usually dry, bland and overcooked. But I am a huge fan of presentation and I admit my interests were peaked when I saw table side carved chicken on the menu. Plus, after having some amazing chicken at Bouchon and Bottega, I have a newfound respect for a roast chicken, especially since ours at home don't ever turn out the way I want. Thomas did a great job carving the bird with precision while causally carrying on a conversation with us  about the restaurant, the chef, ingredients and our dogs. 

Chicken, Purple Potatoes, Carrot, Garnet Yam, Parsnip, Jus

All the while, he was able to put together a gorgeous dish; the freshly cut chicken sat above a mixture of purple potatoes, carrots, yams and parsnip. The jus was poured on, providing a rich, savory sauce for the perfectly cooked juicy bird. One of the best chicken courses I've ever had. At this point, we were getting a little full, root vegetables can do that to you quick.

Fillet Mignon, Morels, Potato Puree, Carrots, Endive Sous-Vide

Our final protein course was the special of the evening, not on the menu, a generous fillet mignon cut topped with morel mushrooms cooked in a creamy buttery sauce with a puree of potatoes, carrots and endive. The endive carried an interesting flavor, prepared sous-vide with salt and pepper, then quickly seared before plating. It was clear that careful thought had been added to the details of the balance of the dish. The steak was cooked perfectly medium rare, and carried a strong buttery flavor in each bite. Another winning entrée. 

Yuzu and Apple Sorbet, Grapefruit, Florentine cookie

We struggled through finishing our chicken and steak, but were delighted to receive our pallet cleaner, a large scoop of yuzu and apple sorbet with the best Florentine cookie ever. A perfect fruity, light, creative sorbet to wash down our meal.

Passion fruit ice cream, Chocolate ganache, shortbread, passion fruit reduction

At this point, we were destroyed. There was no way we could eat any more. Except, the next dessert topped the previous one, offering an odd pairing of passion fruit and chocolate. This dessert has single handedly made me look forward to all passion fruit-chocolate combos in the future because it was phenomenal. The ice cream started off fruity and ended rich and creamy. I'm a big chocolate ganache fan, so no complaints having it with the great ice cream. The chocolate shortbread was different, a little too hard, making it difficult to break, but did offer a nice textural contrast to the rest of the dish. The tart reduction balanced out the dessert overall and the Florentine cookie was again awesome. A perfect ending to a very well executed meal.

We really enjoyed our meal filled with good ingredients, great execution and a friendly staff. Plus, when whether permits, they are really dog friendly and welcome four legged friends on their large patio making it Shaddy Approved. We know the first place we'll hit next time we're in Healdsburg and can't wait for our next great meal there.

Rating 8/10

February 20, 2011

Willi's Seafood Bar

Healdsburg, CA

After walking through Healdsburg square a bit with Shaddy, we wanted a snack where we could eat outdoors with her. We came across Willi's Seafood bar and it peaked our interests. It was pretty crowded and we're always game for seafood, so we stopped in for a midday meal. Willi's is like a seafood tapa bar, small dishes that are easy to share. The tables near us ordered a variety of items that looked good, making our decision tough. We started off with a couple oysters and an iced tea. 

Raw Oysters

I recall two of these oysters were Blue Point oysters from Long Island, but all four were great.

Willi’s French Fries, Laura Chenel Goat Cheese Ranch

French Fries are always a great midday snack and we liked the steak like fries offered at Willi's. The goat cheese ranch was unique and interesting.

Warm Maine Lobster with Garlic Butter & Fennel

I'm always intrigued by lobster rolls and can't wait to get an authentic one in Maine one day, but for now, I continue to order them whenever I get a chance. Willi's was good, warm and buttery, but small. It's one of those sandwiches where there's only bread on the lower half because you've eaten the contents on the top half. Nothing memorable, but curbed my craving.

Fried Ipswich Clam Strips with Shishito Peppers with Lemon/Lime Aioli

The fried clam strips and peppers had a nice kick in the batter with a tasty aioli. 

Willi's was a nice snack stop with Shadow, providing friendly service and tasty food. If we're in the neighborhood again, we know where to stop to curb our seafood cravings. 

Rating 6.5/10
February 20, 2011

Shaddy Approved

Affronti

Healdsburg, CA

We met up with friends for brunch on Sunday morning at Affronti, a block down from Hotel Healdsburg where we stayed. The menu contained a variety of options and prices were very reasonable. I would later learn that this was probably because the serving sizes were very small. Chu-Toro went with sweet potato and hash, served in a small three inch diameter ramekin. We were kind of taken back by how small it was, but the flavor was good and the dish unique. However, we just couldn't get over the fact how small it was. I went with the wine poached egg florentine, which was also solid, but again a very small serving. A single poached egg atop a half of an English muffin.  Everyone seemed to enjoy their items, although all were equally small. We had a great time with our friends, and the food tasted good, but I was still hungry by the end of the meal. 

Nonna's Devil Egg

beef & sweet potato hash, shredded braised beef, garnet nyami, onion & roast pepper

wine poached egg florentine, spinach and parmesan on cousteaux english muffin toast

bacon & potato gratin- applewood smoked bacon,  yukon gold potatoes & parmesan

crêpes sucrées- sweet french pancakes filled with lemon-honey ricotta, maple syrup

Rating 5/10

Feburary 20, 2011

Spoonbar

After our meal at Scopa with Midas and Goldie, we walked to Spoonbar located in the beautiful, contemporary and eco-friendly h2hotel to get dessert. Everything in Healdsburg closes at 11, and they didn't seem very receptive to serving us dessert at 10:30. Eventually we were seated and ordered two items, for a steep $14 per item, from the 'Share menu." 

Banana Split-Up Parfait - Fresh Banana, Chocolate Cake Toast Squares, Harissa
Caramel Sauce, Ginger cookies and Crème de Cacao foam

Midas and Goldie enjoyed their Banana Split-Up Parfait, presented like a tri-fold in a mason jar. 

Grande Plate - A taste of spoonbar! Dessert sampler plate

We opted for the dessert sampler plate that had a meyer lemon tart (good), a pot de creme (Chu-Toro said it tasted like refrigerator), a banana loaf (good) and a variety of cookies (we didn't eat any of them). The restaurant was beautiful, but maybe desserts isn't their thing or we just didn't order correctly, but we weren't addressed. 

Rating 5/10

February 19, 2011

Scopa

Healdsburg, CA

I've been looking forward to dining at this popular restaurant for a while. Yelper reviews and my local friends really enjoy the home style Italian cooking in this tiny restaurant featured in Healdsburg's square. Its actually so tiny that you can walk right by, which we did a couple of times. It has become so popular that locals can't even enjoy walking in because its too crowded with wine country tourists. We were the tourists for this weekend and met up with Midas and Goldie for a Saturday night dinner. Since many of our friends have already dined here, they passed on a handful of recommendations, which we ordered all of.

House-made Ciabatta Bread with Dry Creek Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

It seems silly, but yes you have to order bread and oil, usually a standard freebie, but here is costs six bucks.

Fried Arancini - breaded risotto balls

The arancini was piping hot and fresh with a nice crunchy bite accompanied with marinara sauce, but I liked the ones at Dopo in Oakland better.

Burrata Cheese (mozzarella paradise), arugula, grilled bread

The burrarta was excellent; cool, fresh, and flavorful. Most fresh burrata offerings are bland and taste like nothing, but this one lived up to the recommendation. 

Polpette Calabrese - spicy meatballs with smoked mozzarella in tomato sauce

The meatballs had a nice spicy kick and were blistering hot, presented in a cast iron skillet. Wasn't as good as Tony's Napoletana in the city, but a solid offering.

House made Ravioli with ricotta cheese in a tomato basil sauce topped with parmigiana

It was nice to receive a ravioli dish that had more than five pieces in it. A simple preparation of ricotta cheese filling and tomato basil sauce topped with grated parmigiana.

Tagliatelle boar bolognese

My favorite dish of the night. Delicate fresh tagliatelle generously covered in a bolognese bursting with rich, hearty boar flavor.

Grilled Rib-Eye Steak with rosemary roasted  potatoes and arugula-parmigiano insalatina

Beautifully presented on a wooden carving board, the crusty rib eye was pre-sliced with a mountain of roasted potatoes and a pile of arugula. The steak was cooked medium, a little overcooked by my standards, but carried a nice rosemary flavor.

Pizza Del Giorno - Speck and Arugula

The pizza, which some have said it was best they've ever had, was a disappointment. It felt a little undercooked, and at this point int time was a bit tired of having arugula on almost every dish. 

With all this food and a bottle of Prosecco, the total was less than $50 bucks a person, very reasonably priced. If I were a local, I would probably really like this place. It's simple, friendly, makes unpretentious food with a neighborhood feel. But it's not a memorable, destination, Italian restaurant like Oenotri or Mozza, but overall a nice local joint where you can have a great time with good company.

Rating 6.5/10
February 19, 2011